The mystical Smoo Cave of Scotland
sits at the mouth of the inlet Geodha Smoo atop the worn limestone, I brushed casually the toe of my hiking boot on the soft, muted purple heather blooms. I had in the sleepy Scottish town of Durness a few minutes earlier and made the 10-minute walk along the edge of the inlet arrived to catch a Scottish mystic sunsets hoping. The lead sound of the waves their eternal war against echoed in my ears coast, as I leave the clean scent of heather, salt spray and seaweed fill my lungs.
My arrival in Durness marked the culmination of a long day's drive of the north-west coast of Scotland. The sleepy village of 400 located next to one of Scotland's unique natural wonders. at the end of Geodha Smoo is an inlet halfway along by the ocean, wind carved, and a small stream, Smoo Cave resembles an open maw of the dragon in the side of the surrounding Steinfels carved.
What makes the cave unique in the UK its geographical characteristics. The sprawling outer chamber was carved by the sea over the centuries, while a number of internal caves and tunnels were etched by the two freshwater streams which thread their way through the cave. The first of these two currents blowing a plunge pool at the terminus of the lowest accessible part of the cave is located on. The second comes from the waters of Allt Smoo, a current (or torrent, depending on the rain), which winds through the Scottish countryside before suddenly 80 feet crashing through a hole in the stone ceiling and down to Smoo Cave's second largest Cave.
There, the waters are combined with those that are their way of wandering under the bedrock of connect in a deep pool. Only partially lit by small wall lamps and the faint light streamed in through the hole in the roof, the dark water largely still except for the periodic vortex of a fin of the fish, the gentle mist of the waterfall, and the soft ripple of an inflatable raft as ferries visitors deeper into the heart of the cave.
had little Allt Smoo transformed during my last visit the rain to smoo in a raging river, making it impossible to spend more than a brief moment raised to the wooden platform at the end of the small tunnels that cave the big mouth and the flooded depths of the second chamber connects. This time, since I was covered under the moss cover the Grand Chamber slow, I hoped I would have the chance to explore the cave of the depths.
The portal
for most of the tourists had left after dinner, I found myself alone in the middle of the main chamber is. With a skylight in the ceiling carved by the Allt Smoo before it found an easier way into the chamber, the cave ceiling arches head with more than 40 feet of clearance. The back of the cave is located in a green moss and small plants covered, while a perfectly lit, otherworldly crevasse glows as if an emerald gate has opened to another world.
For people familiar with the epic of Beowulf, it is easy to imagine the early Norse explorers, archaeologists say once made camp in the cave, cowering a campfire tales of sea witches and cave tells trolls around. For others who have been dreaming of similar sea caves, it's easy for the mind to flights of fantasy and dreams to walk straight from Arthurian legend. It seems likely, since the archaeological record for the cave signs of settlement shows the Neolithic 4000 years dating back to the cave inspiring travelers was even during the Pharaohs increases the great pyramids in ancient Egypt.
I enjoyed the moment and paused for several photos in the second chamber to the inn before returning. If the weather played, promised the next morning adventure and the opportunity to expand in Smoo deepest depths.
Exploring the Cave
To my delight morning came only with the lightest of scottish showers. I made my way quickly through to the grand entrance in the main cave, pay a few pounds for the tour, and was fitted for a protective helmet. I joined the other, and we were instructed to lead into the second chamber, where an inflatable raft was set up directly beneath the wooden viewing platform. After a short wait, our guide came and led us carefully down a vertical ladder and into the boat. He was a grumpy old Scot, who obviously had a deep relationship with the cave and give tours for years. After a few barked obey commands, we ducked our heads and pressed us against the floor of the raft as we pulled out from under the low-hanging bridge and along the edge of the second cavern.
Soon we found ourselves by the outer edges of the cases, when he declared to be like the waterfall and the history of the cave came. After a short pause he threw a few pieces of bread crumbled over the edge of the boat. Once taken water, our eyes widened when a small army of invisible fish tore the bread apart and then back. in the depths of the black water
With a gritty giggle, a shock, and a command read our minds, use our guide two ropes are transverse to pull through the chamber and under a low hanging arc with just enough room for the boat. A helmet scraped as we gently led on the rocks overhead the boat under the arch and into a small chamber. There hopped our guide and led us carefully on wooden boards haphazardly in the middle of a small stream sits.
Deep Smoo Cave
The tunnel, which was stretched out before us in about the height of a tall man. The walls looked every bit like a fossilized seabed, reflects their ancient past.
Careful to look after our foundation, we have our guide along the raised boards followed deeper into the cave. The drive was not long, but served the feeling of otherworldliness add. Each step has given us further along what felt like a cross between an underground river and the nature of the old mine our ancestors might have before 100 generations carved.
The tunnel dead ends abruptly. The walls of the cave flair slightly and then converge on one side by a thick layer of large stalactites covered that partly protrude from the wall. Among them, the current threaded its way through rocks like, which in turn pave the way for its fine sand and a small pool, the slides covered under the stalactites wall.
The light twang of disappointment in his voice, our guide explained that attempts to explore further, had to tunnel through the use of diving equipment come with empty hands. proposed indications that the Chamber to explore likely to continue in the cliffs further on, but mud and obstacles in the submerged part of the tunnel made it impossible. It was clear that he had the heart of a researcher and itching for the day when some of shift or change made it possible to find these depths and to deepen.
He broke us thoughtfully expressed reverie and his theory that more probably open at one point, the cave system in other chambers in the cliff. As evidence, he pointed to small pieces soaked charcoal, which had caught in the sand gathered at the lip basin. Bits of charcoal, like the ones we saw were about 4,000 years old and were tested. Even more interesting, they showed signs that they probably came manmade cooking fires.
His passion to solve the question of where the coal came from and who had left it deep in the cave caught our imagination as we slowly made our way back to the boat , Each of us dragged our feet slightly, eager to draw the experience. But then, as quickly as it had begun, we found ourselves back in the boat, our faces pressed against the thick rubber of the sides of the raft as we pressed below the small arc and again dipped into the cave with the waterfall.
Smoo Cave is not the grandiose cave you'll ever find. It is also not the nicest. And yet there is something special there that teases the imagination. For my part, I look at the opportunity to return to the front and cherish the hope that one day we will solve the cave of the puzzle and find out more about what lies behind his flooded gear
logistics .: Durness is best reached by car or motorcycle. However, it can be reached by way of combination Lairg by bus or bus / train. Besides Smoo Cave, Durness also a popular starting point for Wrath Cape is exploring. There are several hostels and numerous hotels and inns in the surroundings; the most convenient for displaying Smoo Cave is the Durness Hostel. Smoo Cave is free to attend, but the boat ride costs about 4 GBP and usually takes 20 to 30 minutes.
Alex Berger is the author of VirtualWayfarer.com and an American currently living in Copenhagen, Denmark. An avid traveler, his passion for travel photography and academic research in the changing role of technology in backpacker culture shape.
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