Vang Vieng: a hedonistic backpackers City Reborn
When I piped the slow flow back down into the town to me were signs of an earlier era: zip lines and rope swings sitting unused, bars nailed long ago with boards, and signs advertising cheap drinks fade. Vang Vieng Riverfront was a reminder of the recent past of the city as a modern Gomorrah.
Well, there was hardly a peep from the surrounding area come. No blaring music. No backpacker jump in too shallow river. Just a few kayakers, tubers and friends the day last warmth of the sun to enjoy.
I came to Vang Vieng to see what had now become the place that the notorious hose had been shut down.
I found a goal reborn.
In the late 190s, hikers in the middle of Laos discovered this small town. Located by a beautiful, refreshing river and surrounded by caves, lagoons and mountains, it was the perfect mountain chill-out place. It was cheap, drugs abounded, and everything went here.
Over the years, the secret got out and Vang Vieng has become a symbol for all that was wrong with backpacking: a city with bars and clubs heaving tourists catering, came as drunk as possible to get and no drugs (all in Laos are illegal), local customs trampled, and this place treated as their own playground. The surrounding countryside and its activities have been ignored in favor of the river, which was lined with bars selling drugs, cheap drinks and fun times.
Each year more and more people came, and every year for backpackers acted foolishly and recklessly jump in average 24 deaths a year from alcohol, drugs, or in the shallow river. Along the river a Dia "The Death Slide" was mentioned - it is a very literal name was.
Finally, it was enough, and the end of 2012, local officials close completely tubing down. It would no longer flow parties.
to went with the hose off the backpacker. For months, Vang Vieng was a ghost town. The economy suffered, and locals worried about the future. About a year later, allowed officials hose again - but with stricter rules. Now, only three bars can be open simultaneously, and there is no longer flow swings, drugs, death slides or dangerous activities. And with a midnight curfew now, the party is not raging all night.
to speak to many locals, I have learned that the number of migrants in the half and replaced by a growing Korean and Chinese tour group population was cut that does pipe and spends more money. Now the backpacker bars will sit empty on the riverbank, while the center of the city with boutique hotels and high-end restaurants is growing on the new wave of tourists catering.
"That's good. There are few people but you spend more money," a restaurant owner said.
"It is much better that people do not die. The old times were good, but that is more secure," a long-time Western bartender told me.
is no longer Vang Vieng the hedonistic jungle city was once was. It is now a quiet center for outdoor adventures, jungle walks and lazy days in the river to cool. Although at first I worried the city was still a crazy backpack would be space, and I would hate it, I found myself now wish I had more time, and leave only reluctantly.
Vang Vieng reclaimed its place as one of the must-see places in Laos.
The new Vang Vieng for some of the old ways reserves: the famous Sakura Bar is still pumping out music until midnight, giving away free drinks to 9 (seriously) and served his whip (not cool); Gary famous Irish Bar is still around; and backpackers still come to drink and socialize.
and hoses does not exist. But it is a much more relaxed affair now.
With so few people around, some days 50-60 people the River permeable float downward; on other days only 20 (it strongly depends on the season). But it is never the hundreds and hundreds, the tube used to visit the bars every day. Moreover, a lot of people skip now the bars and parties, and rent to rent a tube for the purpose of a tube.
locals aware previous reputation of their city, are happy with this new version of hoses.
Tubing decline allowed people has to finally take part in other activities. Now the focus is to explore the dozens of local caves and relax in swimming areas. Many tour operators now offer kayak tours, zip-lining adventure and full-day hikes around the mountains. The city center is bursting with Korean restaurants, boutique hotels, and even a surprisingly good Mexican Restaurant Amigos.
This is not to say that you do not see many backpackers - they can not be missed. But they do not come in the numbers they used to and tend to focus more on the other outdoor activities. Others come to Sodom old expect but quickly find out, which is no longer around.
how at noon threw my suitcase bus to Vientiane, I looked back and I found was sad to leave. The new Vang Vieng is the city, it should always have. It works hard to lose its old reputation and gain a better quality of travelers. I wanted the fiery pink and orange sunsets, the wooded limestone karsts rising into the sky, the mind blowing aquamarine blue swimming pools, and to miss the peaceful landscape, which seems to speak of every pore "Slow down and enjoy."
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